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Unveiling the Secrets of Skincare Part 2: The 8 Chemicals You Need to Dodge

March 18, 2024 • by Charlene Bollinger

Welcome back! This piece is the continuation of an immersive deep dive into the dark underbelly of the cosmetics industry. If you’ve missed the first part, hustle back and check it out Part 1, where I’ve demystified the five nefarious kingpins of chemical villains you ought to sidestep in your skincare products.

 

Undeniably, the notorious “Top 5” featured in the preceding entry are the paramount offenders. However, they merely skim the reservoir of the synthetic red flags that one is wise to circumvent. Today, I’ll run you through eight additional synthetic culprits that are absolutely non-existent in any CHARLÍS product. Brace yourself.

#1 Triclosan

It flabbergasts me to share that triclosan still holds sway, despite its recognized health hazards and the F.D.A.’s legislation prohibiting its use in household soap and over-the-counter antiseptics in 2016. Hand sanitizers today brim with this interloper that’s earned its title as a xenoestrogen due to its uncanny imitation of aggressive estrogen. Couple this with its concealed presence in mouthwashes, fluoride-infused toothpaste, deodorants, creams, and other cosmetics, and you have a potential threat in your hand. Quite literally. (1)

 

This meddler seeps into your bloodstream through the skin, ventures into the thyroid and other key parts of the endocrine system, paving the road to hormonal imbalance. Studies from the University of Tennessee and others link its use to breast cancer and other reproductive cancers. (2) Even casual use may spur bacterial resistance.

#2 Polyethylene Glycol (PEGs)

Meet the unsavory troupe of PEGs, or ethylene glycol polymers. Renowned for their consistency, stability, and retention of moisture, these villains potentially house circulating lethal byproducts, ethylene oxide, and 1,4-dioxane. Such traitorous compounds wade deep into the skin and might infiltrate your bloodstream. (3)

 

These toxins are the roughnecked lot: ethylene oxide shares roots with poison gas (!), contributing to lymphoma, leukemia, and stomach and breast cancers, courtesy of the National Cancer Institute. (4) On the other hand, the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) dubs 1,4-dioxane a ‘probable human carcinogen’ marked with respiratory ailments. (5) And as a gory bonus: PEGs can harbor other malevolent byproducts such as lead, cobalt, and arsenic. (6)

#3 Butylated Hydroxytoluene & Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA & BHT)

This couple, BHA and its cousin BHT, are marked preservatives that both international and home-grown organizations deem detrimental. The U.S. National Toxicology Program tags BHA as a plausible human carcinogen, alluding to possible liver damage and destabilization of the thyroid and reproductive system. (7) (8)

 

Further inquiry reveals its links with stomach cancer and other malignancies. This forms the premise for its ban in the E.U. BHT, despite its close relation to BHA, which mirrors similar risks.

#4 Petroleum

Imagining that your go-to relief balm Vaseline or Vicks Vapor Rub, made predominantly from petroleum, can be hazardous is unnerving. Research finds that petrolatum and petroleum distillates act as cheap skin moisturizers, though they usually clog up the skin surface. (10) Not absorbing well, these ingredients obstruct natural moisture and skin detoxification pathways leading to aggravated skin conditions like acne.

A more sinister revelation is the presence of petroleum distillates like 1,4-dioxane (a recurring offender) and “PAH” or Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, classified as probable human carcinogens. (11) Petroleum can camouflage under names like paraffin wax, mineral oil, toluene, butanol, EDTA, PEGs, or substances prefixed by ‘propyl.’ A lion’s share of synthetic fragrances are partially derived from petroleum distillates.

#5 Siloxanes

Siloxanes, derived from silicon, impart a smooth texture to skin and hair products and hasten drying. While they excel at these tasks, they levy a steep price on your health. They carry potent toxicity, especially for the endocrine system and fertility, as revealed by a Korean study in 2015. (12) The variant, cyclomethicone, is associated with neurological disorders as it influences neurotransmitter function. (13)

#6 Diethanolamine (DEA)

DEA ensures that your skincare products are frothy or creamy, though they can also irritate the skin. Its dark side involves increased risk for liver cancer and thyroid imbalances per studies from the U.S. National Toxicology Program. (14) Chronic exposure to DEA can lead to choline deficiency, which is key for brain health, possibly triggering carcinogenesis. (15)

#7 Oxybenzone

Celebrated in commercial sunscreens for its UV shielding prowess, oxybenzone treads the path of hormone disruption. Environmental Working Group studies have associated it with male infertility and reproductive cancers. Skin allergies also cite oxybenzone as an instigator. (16) This compound can especially spell danger when deployed alongside ‘penetrating agents that enable it to infiltrate deeper into your skin. Oxybenzone heralds not only a potential siege on your skin’s sanctuary layer, but it also potentially wages war on your internal fortresses of health. This makes it more critical than ever to be circumspect about the choice of your sunscreen.

#8 Isothiazolinones (MI/MIT/MCI/BIT)

Our last transgressor in this lineup is a group of preservatives cloaked under the monikers methylisothiazolinone (M.I./M.I.T.), methylchloroisothiazolinone (M.C.I.), or benzisothiazolinone (B.I.T.). Familiarize yourself with these terms, for these offenders could be prowling in your skin and hair routines under the guise of maintaining product “freshness.”

 

However, their pursuits aren’t quite as savory. Research by academic consortiums at UCSD, Loma Linda University, and the Dermatitis Academy picked a bone with these compounds because of their gift of skin irritations and worse. When you cake your skin in moisturizers or other products housing isothiazolinones, you unintentionally open the door to allergies and allergic contact dermatitis. (17)

 

The cherry on top of the irony cake? Even those products playing up titles like “hypoallergenic” or perfect “for sensitive skin” might still be housing these disguised villains. A heads-up here, this revelation should remind you to be discerning about the choice of your cosmetics, irrespective of their branded claims.

 

Conclusion

The journey through the maze of skincare industry secrets does not end with this article, nor does it end with the tenacious scrutiny of product labels. It’s a continuous endeavor of education and vigilance, a commitment to the health of your skin and your overall well-being. As for the eight synthetic offenders outlined above, you can rest assured that they’ll find no room in any CHARLÍS product – ever. Choose safe beauty, and remember, the beauty you wear every day is more than skin deep – it’s vital to your health.

Shop Toxic-Free Skincare from CHARLIS

References:

(1) “5 Things to Know About Triclosan.” Food and Drug Administration.
(2) Recent Evidence Regarding Triclosan and Cancer Risk
(3) Absorption of Polyethylene Glycol (PEG) Polymers: The Effect of PEG Size on Permeability
(4) Ethylene Oxide EPA Deems Ethylene Oxide A Carcinogen
(5) Toxicological Profile for 1,4-Dioxane
(6)  Final report on the safety assessment of PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, PEG-75 propylene glycol stearate, PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, PEG-10 propylene glycol, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate
(7) Butylated Hydroxyanisole.
(8) National Toxicology Program Report on Carcinogens, Fourteenth Edition.
(9) Effects of butylated hydroxyanisole on the development and functions of reproductive system in rats
(10) Petroleum Jelly May Not Be As Harmless As You Think
(11) Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons (PAHs) Frequently Asked Questions by the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry (ATSDR)
(12) Induction of the Estrogenic Marker Calbindn-D9k by Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane(13)  Direct Human Contact with Siloxanes (Silicones) – Safety or Risk Part 1. Characteristics of Siloxanes (Silicones)
(14) NTP Toxicology and Carcinogenesis Studies of Diethanolamine (CAS No. 111-42-2) in F344/N Rats and B6C3F1 Mice (Dermal Studies)
(15) Diethanolamine Induces Hepatic Choline Deficiency in Mice
(16) The trouble with ingredients in sunscreens
(17) Update on Isothiazolinones

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